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Brew Day V2.0

You’re like an employee or two from owning a commercial brewery.
Well, I started out just wanting to change my fermentation chamber situation, I currently use 60L Speidel fermenters and I put them each in their own 5cuft chest freezer (it has an external temp controller that allows it to operate at greater than freezing temps). And it's a snug fit. I have to push the empty fermenter into the chest freezer before filling it. I do 10 gallon batches, usually 11.5 into the fermenter. When it's done fermenting I have to heave that SOB out of the chest freezer so I can transfer. That's about 95lbs that I have to bend over and awkwardly pull out of the chest freezer, and generally the freezer wants to lift up with the fermentation vessel, so I'm kind of using my hip to hold it down. I just have nightmares about my back going out and having the fermenter bodyslam me into the ground before bursting open leaving me laying there in 10 gallons of beer for hours until my wife wonders where I am.

That and I've been using that set-up for at least 6 years and although those Speidel fermenters are very nice and I take very good care of them plastic fermenters don't last forever. I run a hose from the top into a sanitized jar filled a couple inches full with food safe sanitizer solution. When fermentation is active there is usually a steady bubbling in the jar as CO2 gets pushed out. Lately I'm not getting any bubbles, so the CO2 is getting out somewhere else. That's not too big a deal, but what I don't like is when I "cold crash" the beer, which is to drop the temp from mid 60s to 33F quickly and let it sit there for a couple more days before kegging (cold crashing help to get all the solids to "fall" out of the beer and collect at the bottom). I'm worried that once I chill the beer and create a little negative pressure inside the vessel that oxygen is getting pulled in, and that's not good at all.

So I started with those two concerns in mind. A few places are now offering home brew level (for avid homebrewers) stainless steel conical fermenters at semi-reasonable prices. These conicals have options that allow you to control fermentation temps (both heating and cooling), ferment under pressure and do a closed pressure transfer from the fermenter into kegs. I can even carbonate the beer in the fermenter, including naturally carbonating the beer as it ferments. So I was set on going with a conical, but figured if I was going to make that jump I might as well move up in batch size, so I was now set on making 15 gallon batches. So that turned into needing new kettles and I have a few complaints about my current kettles with their weldless fittings and a few spots that tend to rust (not a good beer flavoring) and need a lot of attention and repassivation periodically. So I didn't want weldless fittings and I didn't want NPT fittings (threads are a good place for stuff to hide) so I wanted tri-clamp fittings.

And so I'm just sort of daydreaming about this and a guy I know who has been deployed with the Army Reserve or whatever asks for my opinion on a complete brew system that is pretty much the same type of set-up I currently have. I tell him it's pretty good, but I've been thinking about selling my system and it'll cost a hell of a lot less and be able to do a good bit more. He's on board and I started really figuring out where I wanted to go with a new system. I'm making a major process change from a 3-vessel HERMS system to a 2-vessel RIMS system, and another major change from a PID controlled panel to a software PLC type automated system that offers flexibility and the ability to create "scripts" to really control each step. So now I have hydrostatic pressure sensors to determine how full the kettles are, flowmeters to make sure I'm not running my RIMS element dry, electronic valves that open and close based on software commands, a touchscreen tablet connected to the panel via wifi so I can monitor the brew system from anywhere in the house.

Okay, I'm excited about the system so I could probably write 10x as much but I know this is already way tl;dr for 99.9% of readers.
 
Well, I started out just wanting to change my fermentation chamber situation, I currently use 60L Speidel fermenters and I put them each in their own 5cuft chest freezer (it has an external temp controller that allows it to operate at greater than freezing temps). And it's a snug fit. I have to push the empty fermenter into the chest freezer before filling it. I do 10 gallon batches, usually 11.5 into the fermenter. When it's done fermenting I have to heave that SOB out of the chest freezer so I can transfer. That's about 95lbs that I have to bend over and awkwardly pull out of the chest freezer, and generally the freezer wants to lift up with the fermentation vessel, so I'm kind of using my hip to hold it down. I just have nightmares about my back going out and having the fermenter bodyslam me into the ground before bursting open leaving me laying there in 10 gallons of beer for hours until my wife wonders where I am.

That and I've been using that set-up for at least 6 years and although those Speidel fermenters are very nice and I take very good care of them plastic fermenters don't last forever. I run a hose from the top into a sanitized jar filled a couple inches full with food safe sanitizer solution. When fermentation is active there is usually a steady bubbling in the jar as CO2 gets pushed out. Lately I'm not getting any bubbles, so the CO2 is getting out somewhere else. That's not too big a deal, but what I don't like is when I "cold crash" the beer, which is to drop the temp from mid 60s to 33F quickly and let it sit there for a couple more days before kegging (cold crashing help to get all the solids to "fall" out of the beer and collect at the bottom). I'm worried that once I chill the beer and create a little negative pressure inside the vessel that oxygen is getting pulled in, and that's not good at all.

So I started with those two concerns in mind. A few places are now offering home brew level (for avid homebrewers) stainless steel conical fermenters at semi-reasonable prices. These conicals have options that allow you to control fermentation temps (both heating and cooling), ferment under pressure and do a closed pressure transfer from the fermenter into kegs. I can even carbonate the beer in the fermenter, including naturally carbonating the beer as it ferments. So I was set on going with a conical, but figured if I was going to make that jump I might as well move up in batch size, so I was now set on making 15 gallon batches. So that turned into needing new kettles and I have a few complaints about my current kettles with their weldless fittings and a few spots that tend to rust (not a good beer flavoring) and need a lot of attention and repassivation periodically. So I didn't want weldless fittings and I didn't want NPT fittings (threads are a good place for stuff to hide) so I wanted tri-clamp fittings.

And so I'm just sort of daydreaming about this and a guy I know who has been deployed with the Army Reserve or whatever asks for my opinion on a complete brew system that is pretty much the same type of set-up I currently have. I tell him it's pretty good, but I've been thinking about selling my system and it'll cost a hell of a lot less and be able to do a good bit more. He's on board and I started really figuring out where I wanted to go with a new system. I'm making a major process change from a 3-vessel HERMS system to a 2-vessel RIMS system, and another major change from a PID controlled panel to a software PLC type automated system that offers flexibility and the ability to create "scripts" to really control each step. So now I have hydrostatic pressure sensors to determine how full the kettles are, flowmeters to make sure I'm not running my RIMS element dry, electronic valves that open and close based on software commands, a touchscreen tablet connected to the panel via wifi so I can monitor the brew system from anywhere in the house.

Okay, I'm excited about the system so I could probably write 10x as much but I know this is already way tl;dr for 99.9% of readers.

When you go up in batch size do you have to rework your recipes?
 
chew-jpg.591003
 
I'm not 100% set up with my new system, but I will be using my larger kettles and conical fermenter (and glycol chiller) to make my first 15 Gallon batch tomorrow! Brew Day 2.5 tomorrow, Brew Day 3.0 coming soon!

My new system will be pretty ****ing incredible. I think I'm entering the 1% as far as homebrew systems go.
 
When you go up in batch size do you have to rework your recipes?
Not sure why I didn't answer this when you asked, but hey, better late than never, eh?

Yeah, you do have to adjust recipes. The good thing for me is that I have brewing software that helps calculate things out. In some ways going up 50% in batch size just means increase everything by 50%, but it doesn't always work like that exactly and/or you will not end up with the same end product. A big one is for hops. It is easier to extract more bitterness out of the same amount of hops if they are in more water. Also, you start to extract less bitterness from them if you already have a lot of dissolved sugar in that water. Add to it that hops usually come in either full cone (their natural state) or pellets. Full cone absorbs a lot of water and leads to loss of final yield. Pellets don't absorb as much water but they do still absorb water and they settle out and hopefully stay in the boil kettle so they cause loss also. And finally, hops are plant material. If you add a lot and it is in the fermenter it can add what is called a vegetal flavor in the beer, which is not desirable. So as you move up in batch size it becomes more practical to use a higher bitterness hop for the initial hop addition. Little hop flavor lasts for the hops added 60min before the boil ends, so it's less important that you use hops with a specific flavor profile for that addition.

Also, from what I've noticed I get lower mash efficiency the more grain I mash. So going up probably means to get the same extraction of sugars I'd have to add 55%-60% more grain to make 50% more beer. Then you have to really think about your grain bill. The majority of the grain used is the "base grain" but then there are additional crystal malts, specialty malts and roasted grains. These add either caramel type of sweetness or bready flavors, nutty flavors, coffee flavors, chocolate flavors, etc.. They also do most of the work as far as the color of the beer. So while you need to up the grain used to get the right amount of sugar extraction you don't necessarily need to increase the specialty grains by that same amount, the flavor and characteristics they provide scales closely with the batch size. So you'll likely end up using more base grain than the increase in batch size would seem to indicate but not more specialty grain.
 
This is an absolutely amazing video about brewing and the person in the video is a legend in the field. He explains things so amazingly well. I have zero critique of any info he provides.

 
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